Last summer we sent two weeks in Aix-in-Provence, France, a university town of about 145,000 people, located just over 100 miles from Nice by train through Marseilles. Aix is a beautiful town with modern architecture, especially in its art complex, which is home to the annual art festival, devoted primarily to opera but also includes orchestral and vocal concerts.
Aix is also a great place for food! Some of your favorites restaurants:
Chez Jo was the first restaurant we tried on arrival in Aix and we made it a regular stop over our two-week visit. Chez Jo is known for their steaks and pizzas, cooked in a hot oven located in the middle of the dining room. I think I had a steak each time we visited. They are prepared to order, along as the order tends to be medium-rare and come with great fries and salad. If you eat inside, you can watch the steak master prepare your meal, but it’s more fun to sit outside and watch the street traffic going by the small square where the restaurant is located. Plus on a warm summer day, the inside can get a little warm with the large oven in the middle of the room. Chez Jo is located at 59, rue Espariat (+ 33 04 42 26 12 47, www.pizzeriachezjo.com).
Just off the Place des 4 Dauphins, easily identifiable by the fountain with four dolphins in the middle of the square, is the restaurant Jardin Mazarin, also identifiable by its purple welcome mat. Go through the restaurant and eat in the small secluded garden with gurgling water and lots of greenery. The artichoke hearts are perfectly prepared and the nice size duck breast come with a large piece of sautéed foie gras sitting on top. I am a foie gras, fan and this was one the largest pieces I have ever been served. Linger around with your wine and have a nice long relaxing meal in a very tranquil setting. Jardin Mazarin can de found at rue du 4 September (+33 4 42 66 05 31, www.jardinmazarin.com).
The Gallifet Art Center is a contemporary art museum, located a few blocks south of Cours Mirabeau in the heart of Aix. It is open for light lunches in its large courtyard in front of the main building. It’s a beautiful setting to enjoy a soup and salad and nice fresh tarts and pastries. On certain evenings during the summer they serve dinner along with a live festival of ‘arty jazz’. Gallifet is at 52 rue Cardinale (+33 9 53 84 37 61, www.hoteldegallifet.com).
About a half mile north of downtown Aix in a large rectangular town ‘square’ with about dozen restaurants and bars situated down the middle of the square and along the perimeter. It seems to be a hangout for college students but has some very nice restaurants, both fancy and not-so-fancy. One of our favorites is Chez Laurette closer to the eastern end of the square. It is known for excellent seafood and some of the best escargot I had on this trip. TripAdvisor has a mix of reviews, but I thought it was a great find for a very nice lunch. The address is 6 Forum des Cardeurs (+33 4 42 96 95 40).
