Road Trip through Mississippi - Day 8 - Memphis

I had not heard of the famous Peabody Ducks before this trip.  Everyday since the 1930’s, ducks are paraded at 11am down from the rooftop of the hotel to the central lobby fountain with much fanfare and ado.  They are them paraded back up the their rooftop home at 5pm every evening.  There are three ducks now and we were told the ducks are changed every 3 months.  All of this is done to much fanfare led by a Duck Master.  Hotel residents and others fill the lobby to watch. 

The best thing to do In Memphis, is to visit the National Civil Rights Museum on the location of the Lorraine Hotel, the site of the assassination of Martin Luther King, Jr. on April 4, 1968.  The museum is built into the motel and covers the entire history of the civil rights movement beginning with slavery in the south, all forms of integration attempts, and end ending in the hallway between two hotel rooms, one where Martin Luther King stated and one where other men in his entourage stayed.  They have put glass windows in the walls and you can look in and see how the rooms looked in that fateful day.   You can then walk across the street and go into the former boarding house where James Earl Ray fired the killing shots.   We spent about 3 hours in the museum.  The exhibits are very powerful and extremely informative.  Standing in the hallway between the two hotel rooms and looking out at the exact spot where Martin Luther King, Jr. was murdered, gave me goose bumps. This is a must see in Memphis! 

Road Trip through Mississippi - Day 7 - Graceland!

Elvis!  On to Memphis with a stop at Graceland!   I did not expect to find Graceland to be as popular as it still is, but it is!   We arrived at about 10:30 in the morning and parked in the very large lot across the street from the mansion and entered the large welcome center and ticket office.  The tour starts with a short film on Elvis’ life and the house.  Then you get in line, given head phones and shepherded into a small bus for the trip across the street, where you a given an electronic tablet that you retake with you and play on the house tour.  The house is not as large as I was expecting but it was decorated for Christmas (we were there the Saturday after Thanksgiving).   You walk the hallways and look in on about 6 rooms before heading outside to see, among other things, Elvis’ and other family members graves.  Then you take the bus back across the street to eat, shop or tour Elvis’ planes, the ‘Lisa Marie’ and the ‘Hound Dog 2’.    We did the basic tour for about $40 per person, but you can also take the Ultimate VIP tour for $159 which includes a private tour and access to rooms that general ticket holders don’t get to see. 

Road Trip through Mississippi - Day 6 - Oxford

Rowan Oak is the family home of author William Faulkner and is located in the heart of Oxford, though it can be a little hard to find - head out of town on South Lamar Road about 1/2 mile and take a right on Old Taylor Road.  Follow this road about 1/4 mile until it turns to the left.  At the turn, go straight and park on the dirt road.  The house is about 100 yards away on the right.   It’s a larger house than I had expected with good time hot is and exhibits on Faulkner’s life and writing.  After touring the house you can take a 30 minute walk in the woods the ends at the Ole Miss Museum.   The next stop on Faulkner tour was the city cemetery to visit his grave.  William Faulkner is buried in the St. Peter’s Cemetery about a 1/2 on the other side of the town square from Rowan Oak.  Take a right on Jefferson Street  and then a left on 16th Street. Go about 1/10 of a mile and look for the plaque making Faulkner’s grave.  It is customary to drink a shot of whiskey and throw a few coins on his grave - which, of course, we did.

Road Trip through Mississippi - Day 5 - Oxford

Oxford, MS is a nice southern college town.  It reminds me of both Chapel Hill and Charlottesville but is somewhat smaller.  Because of the town square, it also reminds me of Sonoma, CA.  Our first full day there was Thanksgiving Day, so the town was pretty quiet.  Only a few restaurants and bars were open and most of them were closed by early afternoon.  No stores were open, but many had signs to attract buyers to their Black Friday sales.  We spent a good part of the day wandering the ultra-quiet campus of the University of Mississippi, Ole Miss.   I’ll take this opportunity to say that MS citizens are very, very friendly.  While on the Ole Miss campus trying to take a selfie, 4 young women came jogging by, stopped to offer to take the photo and squabbled among themselves over which of them was going to take the picture!   Ole Miss was chartered in 1844 and today has about 24,000 students.  The school made national news in 1962, when James Meredith became the first black student at the then all-white University.  

Road Trip through Mississippi - Day 4 - Vicksburg, Jackson

We left Natchez early in the morning as we had a 160 mile road trip up through Vicksburg, Jackson and on to Oxford.  On the drive up to Vicksburg, we made a detour in Port Gibson to see the Windsor Ruins - a set of 23 Corinthian columns, the only remains of an 1861-built mansion that was destroyed by fire in 1890.   The columns sit in a field by themselves with not much around them, about 9 miles southwest of Port Gibson.  Worth the little jog off the main road to see.  Then on to the Vicksburg Military Park,  a national park on the site of the 47-day siege in 1864 won by Union forces.  To see the park, you have to drive around the park dotted with cannon and monuments dedicated to the numerous troops on both sides.  It takes a good hour of slow straight driving but could take hours more if you stop at every monument and cannon location.  It’s a very worthwhile visit.  Eudora Welty’s home in a residential area of Jackson is open to the public.  If you are a fan of Welty’s, as we are, it’s worth the pilgrimage.   We stayed at the Chancellor’s House in downtown Oxford, a 3-minute walk to the town square and a 3-minute walk to the Ole Miss campus.  It’s a nice brand new hotel with large comfortable rooms and a nice comfortable bar and restaurant.